Boise is home to a lot of restaurants that serve upscale casual American cuisine. Boise is also home to a lot of restaurants that used to be food trucks. Saint Lawrence Gridiron is both of those things, and that makes it a quintessentially Boise establishment.
Saint Lawrence offers barbecued meat and comfort food redesigned in service of modern palates. The menu includes brisket, pulled pork, and other hefty entrees that your doctor doesn’t need to know about.
A simple menu is usually a sign of a decisive and empowered chef, but this menu felt excessively spare.
I ordered the Rebellion Burger—which boasted pimento cheese, house pickles and slaw on brioche—with vegetable succotash on the side.
The burger looked lucious and imposing when it was set down in front of me, but the meat did not contain the blast of umami I’d hoped for. The vegetables laid limp beneath the bun. Everything felt doused in butter, but lacked commensurate flavor.
The succotash, packed with vibrant vegetables, was likewise lackluster.
Saint Lawrence enjoys a dreamy downtown location, and the patio looks out toward the city’s most architecturally defensible post office. But superior burgers are available just a few steps away. Bittercreek, 10 Barrel, and Juniper are beating Saint Lawrence at its own game (and I have yet to try Eureka).
The regular disclaimers apply: I haven’t sampled the whole menu, including the more barbecue heavy entrees.
But right now, Saint Lawrence charges too much money for a meal that is largely unmemorable. I’d rather go to Bittercreek. ∎